• Fuel Rails will work on 95-04 Neons with a 2.0 SOHC, 2.0 DOHC, 2.4 DOHC, and even the SRT-4.

• The Fuel rails require fittings and fuel line hoses, which are not included in the price of the fuel rail. E-Mail LFS if you have any question or problems about fittings.

• Fuel rails are tapped to 3/8 NPT (National Pipe Thread) on both ends and 1/8 NPT for the center point.

• The fuel rails are universal rails. They have both bolt patterns drilled on the rail. SOHC engines are tapped on one side while the DOHC engines are on the other side.

• The Throttle Bodies work with automatic and manual transmissions.

• For 2000 and up Neons, you must have a additional IAC adapter, so the old IAC sensors will bolt up to the throttle body.

• The Second Gen. TB, will NOT work on the SRT-4.

• The TB's are 60mm vs. the stock 49mm on a manual tranny, and 52mm on the automatic tranny.

• If throttle sticking occurs at the start, loosen the jam nut that adjusts the throttle . Then screw the idle screw up just a hair till it stops sticking then re-tighten the jam nut. DO NOT screw it up too much or this will increase your idle to much. You can test it with your hand opening and closing of the TB plate. If you don't feel it sticking then reinstall it on your car. If it does you need to raise the TB set screw more till it stops.

• If the car idle hangs when you push the clutch in, make sure you reset the computer. Also you can try to adjust the TB plate. What people have told me was while the car was running the loosened the jam nut on the TB. Then moved the screw to open the TB plate once the car reved up they then backed it off slowly till the idle dropped back to normal then retightened the jam nut and this fixed their problem.

• If the anodized finish looks cloudy or foggy all it needs done is to clean the TB and wax the anodized surface of it. With waxing it it will clear the foggy look and make it shine like new. I personally use Zymol wax reason I used it was because it was in my garage. Just wipe it on like waxing a car and wipe it off before it dries. DO NOT let it dry as I did this once and had to redo it to get the finish back to shinny. So just whipe it really well and remove it do small sections at a time. When you do it will shine like new.

• If there is any problems with the brackets for the fuel rails and you need them to be slotted just a bit more for installation you can use a dremel or a drill to slot the brackets just a bit more to install the rail on your car. I had only 2 people tell me that they had to do this. Most installs you will not have to worry about this problem one was on a SRT-4 Fuel rail. If you can't do this contact me and I will slot them for you and return them for free.

• Fuel rails will work on the SOHC magnum manifolds, but do require a slight modification to the manifold. There are ridges on the manifold that interfere with the fuel rail from sitting flush. These ridges will need to be grinded off, so that the fuel rail fits, and so the injectors will not leak. For Pictures of the Ridges that are on the Manifold that need to be removed. It's very simple to do with an all purpose grinder. Once they are removed the rail will fit perfectly fine. Any questions on this please let me know and I will do my best to assist you. The spots that need to be grinded down are circles in the RED so that you can see what needs to be done. Some Fuel rail brackets might require you to slot the holes longer or shorter depending on the injectors you use. I had a few reports of this and it's a simple thing to do with a dremel tool. I am making provisions to slot them longer myself to avoid this problem. If for some reason this is a problem with your rail this is what is needed to install it. If you have problems with this please contact myself and I will fix them for you.

If you have any questions that are not listed here. Please feel free to email us.