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LFS 60mm Throttle Body
Installation
Thank you for purchasing the LFS Throttle Body for your
Dodge SRT4. This Throttle body is easy to install and will
give you years of reliability and performance.
To Install:
1. Start off by removing the negative battery terminal
(10mm).
2. Remove Intake air box and/or aftermarket intake.
3. Pull off the vacuum line on the stock adapter plate (If
you purchased the 60mm Adapter plate from us)
4. Disconnect the TPS connector (off white color)
5. Disconnect the IAC connector (black color)
6. Disconnect the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
connector on the cold side intercooler pipe.
7. Pull off the red hard plastic line going to the cold
side intercooler pipe.
8. If you have the stock cold side pipe from the
intercooler to the throttle body there will be (2) standard
worm screw type clamps, they are 8mm or you can use a flat
head screw driver to undo them. T-Bolt clamps are usually
7/16” for those using them for aftermarket pipes.
9. At this point you may want to disconnect your vacuum
line to your Blow Off Valve that is on your aftermarket pipe
if so equipped.
10. Now we are ready to remove the cold side intercooler
pipe, remove now.
11. The throttle body is attached by (2) 10mm bolts that go
through both, the throttle body and the adapter sandwiched
between the throttle body and intake manifold. Remove the
bolts now.
12. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding the throttle cable to
the throttle body.
13. Remove the throttle cable off the throttle linkage, you
may need to open the throttle plate up to get enough slack.
Align the cable with the slot and pull up on the cable to get
the barrel out.
14. Now you should be able to pull out your whole Throttle
body.
15. Now you should be able to pull off your stock adapter
plate (If you purchased the 60mm Adapter plate from us)
16. You will need the following from the stock Throttle
Body:
· TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
· O-ring from stock TPS
· IAC (Idle Air Control)
17. Notice that the TPS and the IAC have torx screws. (1)
on the IAC and (2) on the TPS. I used a 1/8” Allen wrench to
take those off if you do not have the correct torx bit.
18. IAC - Use a bit of WD-40 on the IAC O-ring so it slides
into its new home on the LFS Throttle Body. Use the new screw
supplied (3mm allen wrench)
19. TPS – Insert the TPS O-ring into position, place the
TPS onto the LFS throttle body connector side facing out
towards the opening. Use the screws (2) and washers supplied
to mount the TPS onto the throttle body. Use a 3mm allen
wrench to tighten down.
20. Attach the throttle cable bracket onto the LFS throttle
body using the stock (2) 10mm bolts
21. If you purchased the Optional LFS 60mm adapter plate
then you will also need the large O-ring found on the stock
adapter plate, remove it from the stock adapter and install it
on the LFS 60mm unit. Install the LFS adapter plate if
purchased. Use a bit of WD-40 to aid in installation onto the
intake manifold.
22. Install stock adapter plate if no purchase of the LFS
60mm adapter plate was made.
23. Install throttle body and insert the long allen head
bolts through both the LFS throttle body and the adapter
plate. Tighten the (2) bolts using a 6mm allen wrench. Use a
modified stock gasket or use some gasket silicone sealant that
can resist oil.
23. Install Throttle cable on throttle linkage..
24. Reinstall cold side intercooler pipe. Sometimes this
can be tricky depending on what pipe you are using. Stock and
aftermarket ones will fit but they do take a bit of extra
effort installing. If you are having trouble I found it a bit
easier to disconnect the bottom of the pipe where it attaches
to the intercooler. Installing it as much as you can on the
lower side of the TB then you can use a small screw driver and
insert it between the TB and the pipe and lightly pry so it
lifts the pressure pipe up and over the TB lip. If you are
using the stock one remove the staple that holds the stock
clamp in place as the back side of the staple will mar and
cause installing the pressure pipe difficult. Also if you have
2.5 inch T-bolt clamps you might find it difficult to get the
bolts started. I know on the Exhaust Depot hardpipes I
couldn't get it started but I was able to use it with the
stock pressure pipe and my ATP pressure pipe. I completely
removed the nut wraped it around the pipe and then squeezed
the clamp enough just to barely get the nut threaded on and
then tightened it up.
WARNING!!!!!!!! DO
NOT PLACE ANY PART OF THE ACTUAL CLAMP ON THE SIDE OF THE
THROTTLE LINKAGE THIS CAN CAUSE THE LINKAGE TO GET STUCK ON
THE CLAMP CAUSING THE THROTTLE TO BE HELD WIDE OPEN. MAKE SURE
THAT THE CLAMP PART IS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE HOSE WHICH IS
CLOSE TO THE RADIATOR.
26. Reconnect the sensors: TPS, IAC, IAT
27. Reconnect your vacuum lines and intake/air box.
28. Make sure everything is nice and snug, plug battery
back up and make sure the car starts and runs fine. Check if
idle is 750-850 rpm’s while warm at idle.
29. ALL CURRENT ORDERS HAVE LOCTITE ON THE SET SCREW you no
longer need to do this part when installing the TB. But if you
want to adjust the throttle for any reason read below.
To adjust the idle if you need to just open the throttle
manually using the throttle attachment part or have a friend
step on the gas it will be easier this way. Then just adjust
it with the 1/8 allen wrench higher or lower if needed 99
percent of the cars won't have to do anything. Just becareful
if you go too low the throttle might stick a little bit so do
not adjust the screw much just ever so slightly till it's
perfect. Once it's perfect loctite it in place.
Have fun and enjoy your new found performance
-Lorenzo's Fuel Systems-
2000-04
TB's Install Guide (setup includes; Iceman CAI, and N2O)
TOOLS NEEDED:
-
Screwdriver (for CAI)
8mm, 10mm, 11mm sockets
13mm, 16mm wrenches ( or just a Crescent Wrench)
Torx T-20
3mm, 4mm, 5.5 hex wrenches (Allen Wrench)
Dremel (or grinder, hacksaw, etc.)
Beverage of choice :)
INSTALL TIME:
'Bout an hour
First, take a look
at your old TB, Cause you'll never miss it.
Now lets identify some
of the parts and move on to the Stock TB removal
First, remove the
plugs from the Idle air control (IAC) and the throttle
position sensor (TPS), and while you're at it, remove the
vacuum lines. My car only had one vacuum line hooked up, the
other one had a plug over it. I can't remember if I did this,
or if it was like that already....*shrug*. You may have both
in you r car.
Next you'll want to unscrew
the rubber couplers holding the CAI in, this will make removal
of the throttle cable easier. Turn the underside where the
throttle cable connects to the TB bracket. There's a small
hole with a bit of plastic sticking of the TB bracket. Unhook
the cable end from the throttle are.
Now you should be able to
pull the TB free, and while you're at it, remove the couplers
from the CAI, and the bellows tube from hr CAI as well. It is
much easier to re-install this way.
Now that the OLD TB is
removed, we need to transfer the sensor and bracket over to
the SHINY NEW 60mm TB.
Remove the IAC using a 8mm
socket. Be sure to get the little rubber gasket out as well.
Be very careful not to but , or tare the gasket. If you do it
is going to cast you. If you do. I recommend going to a junk
yard.
Next, using a T-20 Remove
the IAC, and be sure that you get the O-Ring as well.
Now using a 10mm socket,
remove the 3 bolts that holds the bracket on the TB. This step
should be leaving you with TWO stripped TB's:
You're just about half way
there! Now for the tricky part. The bracket will need to be
modified to fit the NEW TB. A small tab needs to be cut off or
bent to allow the throttle arm to arc.
As you can see, the piece to
put is right where the arm for my N2O micro switch rests. But
never fear fellow nitrous users, if you have a similar WOT
switch mount you will be able to keep it there. I recommend
removing the WOT switch at this point. You now have two
choices. First you can cut the tab off as shown in the picture
which will be easy. Or you can bend the tab out of the way
just in case you ever need to put the stock TB back on as this
is the WOT throttle stop for the stock TB. People have done
both and they both work fine. If you plan on cutting it a
hacksaw, grinder, dremel, or anything that you might have.
Now let's get the newly
modified bracket onto the NEW TB. Using a 4mm Hex wrench ,
screw the new TB onto the bracket. The middle bolt requires
some creative movement of the throttle arm to get in place.
*DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE HEX BOLTS* Keep in mind from here on
out that you are using steel hardware on an aluminum piece.
Snug is good. If you over tighten, you will strip out the
holes in the TB!
As you can see in this pic,
the 60mm TB has a little piece of the metal that is perfect
for contact on the N20 micro switch. The only modification I
did to the switch was to bend the contact arm slightly forward
to meet the throttle arm.
Now you're ready for the 2nd
vacuum line connection. This one goes to the right of the TPS,
which we'll install next. this piece goes on with the help of
13mm wrench. Don't forget to put the plug! unless your car
didn't have one. I plan to remove this later on and replace
with with a pipe plug from a hardware store of the same
diameter. I believe it's 5/16 NPT pipe plug, as for my rubber
plug i starting to rot. Also remember to use "Teflon Tape" to
seal the plugs, so they do not leak.
let's get the TPS on there.
You may notice that the TPS wants to go on crooked, about 5-10
degrees clockwise. Not to worry, just gently twist it into
place and use a 2mm hex wrench to get it snugged down. Now you
should have everything swapped over.
Now you'll want to get the
CAI bellows tube coupler to fit over the outlet side of the TB
(smaller sire). this is kind of a pain. the Iceman rubber
connector is approximately 2.75" outside diameter, and mine
had to stretch to 2,86" to fit over the TB! If you are having
a lot of trouble , try removing the TB bracket first, it can
get in the way or put the rubber connector near a heater to
gently warm it up which will help to loosen it so it can slip
on. Fortunately the coupler on the inlet side is plenty big
(3" on the Iceman) and should slip right on. Tighten down the
clamps and your ready to get it on the car! Be sure all the
vacuum lines and plugs get hooked up correctly!
AHHH... A THING OF BEAUTY.
now go and DRIVE FAST!
-Jackrabbit
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